Tag Archives: BC Ferries
Galiano Island in the Winter
This weekend fiance Theodora and I took a trip to Galiano Island. In the late fall, early winter the island sharply contrasted with the Galiano of early summer that we had known and loved.
In the summer, Galiano Island is flush with tourists. Located between Vancouver Island and Vancouver, the island is the closest by ferry to the Lower Mainland. Its East coast looks out over the city, whose lights are clearly visible across the cool blue channel.
Its close proximity makes it a top choice for Lower Mainlanders and other tourists looking to experience the Gulf Islands over a day or two. In the warm months of the year it feels overrun by people. During one visit this summer we attended the wedding of Gumboot correspondent Godfrey von Nostitz-Tait (otherwise know as our man Tait). The island was playing host that weekend to several weddings, thousands of visitors and many more seasonal residents who flock back to the wooded paradise when the flowers start to bloom and the frost disappears.
There are roughly 1258 people who live on the island year round. This population swells by thousands in the summer. During the temperate months of June, July and August you’ll see dozens of cyclists rolling along the hilly rural roads. Many other visitors will be camping at Montague Harbour campsite, a gorgeous spot, lying in a sheltered harbour of what was once the principle gateway onto the island until it was usurped by Sturdies Bay, which lies on the south edge of the island. Other visitors indulge in a variety of summer activities ranging from canoeing, kayaking, hiking, beach combing, fishing, diving and generally relaxing.
Despite strong demand for development, the local “island trust” has remained firm in slowing any build up and has kept the island resolutely rural. Homes are hidden away in the bush. Aside from a few patches of commercial development at the ferry docks and at nearby Montague, there’s little density or concentration. Instead Galiano’s residents get by with a small handful of restaurants (half of which close during the winter months), a bakery, a small bookstore, an ice cream shop and a couple grocery stores.
In the winter, the crowds evaporate. The little kiosk that serves Indonesian and German food (Max and Moritz) at the ferry is closed (though there is still a week left – try the currywurst with fried onions, you won’t be disappointed). The line ups at the little BC Ferries terminal are manageable. As the temperature drops, frost starts to appear on the woody landscape. Islanders – the true islanders who stay year round – are bundled under wool coats, scarves and aged unfashionable – yet comfortable – sweaters.
There are two staple stores that feed the community. The gas station and the Daystar (known from now on as the Hippiemart). The gas station functions also as a dry and frozen food shop, video store and liquor store. Just like in Quebec, this is a place where you can pick up a frozen dinner, an action flick and a 12 pack of local Vancouver Island beer all at the same spot.
The Hippiemart is the antithesis of the Gas Station. Located across the road, it also carries videos. But not your typical Hollywood blockbusters, but rather movies like Deepah Metah’s “Water”, “Greenberg” and anything that A.O. Scott of the New York Times has given a raving review. Most things stocked in the Hippiemart are organic, fresh looking and tasty. Beef sold is happy. Their bread is imported from Vancouver’s Commercial Drive’s own Uprising Bakery. The chocolate is brought in from Saltspring Island. Everything about the Hippiemart screams local. The older I get, the more I love the place.
In the winter (and probably in the summer as well) The Hummingbird pub is the hub of the community – and not just for alcoholics. One of the best restaurants in the area, I’ve never had a bad meal there. If you like hamburgers, go for one of their platters (the Galiano burger is my favourite!) or try their fish and chips. Inside the pub, the winter community congregates. While jammed with weddings and tourists in the summer, in the winter everything slows down. People relax by the bar, play a couple rounds of pool or a game or two of chess. NFL or CFL football games quietly display the exploits of top athletes via a big screen TV positioned in the corner and a kino board flashes randomly in the din. As hokey as all this sounds, it isn’t. The pub emits a warm glow of informality that’s hearty and attractive in cool winter evenings. This is no chain restaurant. Little that is particularly polished, though there is something innately comforting about the whole place.
This weekend, after visiting the Hummingbird, we were lucky enough to pop by the Galiano community hall for their annual mushroom festival. Jammed with islanders of all ages, the mushroom festival had dozens of varieties of big and small mushrooms strewn across a series of tables. Most mushrooms were labelled. Green meant safe to eat, black writing marked an unknown danger and red meant eat this at your peril. We sat on the stage and ate mushroom soup and observed an elderly couple munching on mushroom and lobster pate. We’d arrived late and so missed out on the pate. It seemed the mushroom festival had attracted many more islanders than the kitchen organizers had expected. It was only 12:30 and the festival, set to run to 3 PM, had already run out of food.
Sitting at the table and taking in this unique community we were struck by the lack of “hustle and bustle” that would often characterize a similar event in the city. People seemed to be taking more time. Slowly appraising the fungi. We left the mushroom festival full from a hearty bowl of soup (which aside from needing a good pinch of sea salt was as filling as it was tasty). Warm and satiated, we headed out into the frosty morning, ready to wander some trails and read by the sea shore. A great weekend on a great island.
The Unraveling Traveler: Thanksgiving in Merville
From Friday, October 9 until Monday, October 12, intrepid explorers John Horn and Michelle Burtnyk – Team Bornk! is their official “adventure” name – braved BC Ferries, Northern Vancouver Island, 25 relatives, two turkeys, nearly 40 senior citizens, and a flip chart to bring you this amazing tale. What unfolds below is a breakdown of the weekend’s events. I encourage you to skim, because it’s pretty long. From shenanigans to tomfoolery to unconditional love of Grandmothers, we cover it all. What unfolds happened as told by John Horn with collaborative input from Michelle Burtnyk, and let’s get to it…

The road to The Compound during the "epitomy of autumn"
Friday, October 9, 2009
9:34am – 12:17pm: at work and the kids are alright. Better than alright, actually. The workshop on one-page resumes is actually nothing short of inspiring. It feels like a graduate seminar in which we’re discussing the literary turn and my main man, Dominick LaCapra. Can you take a post-structuralist approach to resumes? Yes we can! The students’ energy raised my energy and my fun level rises to maximum capacity.
2:55pm: I find myself on a Number 44 bus heading downtown jammed awkwardly between the window, a cushion/barricade and four people on one of the most crowded bus rides in the history of public transit; luckily, the passengers are mostly university students eager to get away for a weekend of real fun and real food, so the vibe is good and the energy is still of the enthusiastic sort.
3:44pm: arrive at corner of Georgia and Burrard to wait for the 257 Express and/or 250 “Slow Boat” busses to the Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal. As I survey the swelling lineup and ever-stressing faces of the people within it, I realize that I am standing amongst folks who actually think they are going to make the 5pm sailing to Departure Bay. As I speak with Michelle on the phone, I say, “…and there are people here who are yelling incredulously at full buses because they are trying to make the 5pm sailing, which is pretty funn – no offense, people standing around me.”
3:52pm: the budging starts. Subtly, at first, with people feigning confusion and incompetence – “oh, sorry, I didn’t know there was a line” or “ohhhh, this is the front of the line, not the back?” With little time to get to Horseshoe Bay, when the next 250 bus pulls up, well, the serious budging and pushing begins. Surely there is a better way to live than this, people!
4:25-5:21pm: I’m on the bus next to a talker named Kate; we become friends and exchange numbers with the noble goal of one day practicing our French together.
5:23-5:33pm: madness ensues at the BC Ferries terminal (shocking, I know) when it is announced that “all Nanaimo passengers taking the 5pm ferry please move to the front of the line.” What?! Nanaimo?! 5pm?! But it’s 5:23!! Yes, it is well past 5pm; however, the ferry was nearly 40 minutes late, so here we are. Frantically, I grab my mobile device telephone twitterberry and call Michelle. She is 20 minutes away and the bus, in spite of her sweetest smile, will not go faster and/or miss stops to suit her personal needs. So, by the closest of calls, we miss the 5pm ferry. Just like we planned.
5:53-6:59pm: decent meal of sushi in a restaurant that, ironically enough, was not prepared for a pre-sailing-dinner-rush. To quote my new friend and fellow unraveling traveler, Lyle: “why is it that restaurant staff will always emerge at 9pm and say, ‘wow, we totally got slammed!‘ – of course you did, it’s dinner and you’re a restaurant!” So, we hustled into the lineup for the 7pm boat (where we meet Lyle).
7:29-9:03pm: “Welcome aboard BC Ferries!” Madness. Utter and complete madness. It is delightful, though. Together, Michelle and I encounter no fewer than seven people we knew, including my friend from high school, Carl, who just makes you feel like a million bucks when you talk to him, as he laughs at every single sentence like you’re Seinfeld delivering an amazing punchline. So that was the upside, the people. The downside was also the people. There were many of us, and there was still a lineup for the cafeteria as we chugged into Departure Bay.
9:17-10:31pm: my sister picks us up at the ferry and showers us with homemade granola bars, banana-nut bars and indy rock music. Amazing. Conversation topics include, but are not limited to, wedding planning, clashing of worlds (tomorrow’s Thanksgiving dinner would mark the meeting of Michelle’s parents and my mom’s entire side of the family, including Uncle John…), politics (all varieties), “hotness”, ninjas, why panda bears suck, South America, and love.
10:37pm-12:03am: we arrive in Merville and quickly collect ourselves around my parents outdoor fireplace and get caught up on life, the universe and everything. And then we spend a few minutes going over the game plan for tomorrow – when the reality of feeding and entertaining 24 people who span the age of 1 to 85 years old actually hits us, we decide to head to bed.

The Horn Family Garden, where so many of the Thanksgiving Goodness came from
Saturday, October 10, 2009
12:15-8:33am: dreams include, but are not limited to, eating turkey, being eaten by a turkey, giant plants, and dancing bears.
8:34am: arrive downstairs to see that my father has peeled and chopped nearly all the vegetables for dinner. So that’s what that sound at 5:31am was…
8:35-9:03am: put on gumboots, my Merville jacket, my Peruvian alpacca toque, grab a cup of amazing locally roasted coffee, and hit the deck with my dad to philosophize on life, the universe and everything.
9:07-11:32am: food prep! Highlights include Dad preparing brussel sprouts with garlic and parmesan cheese, Kim Horn stuffing two turkeys (while somehow making a delicious pumpkin cheesecake with Michelle), and Mama Horn supervising everything and everyone with humourously benevolent authority.
10:45-11:51am: emergency side-trip into town to pick up chicken feed, cream cheese and, most importantly, do some father-son bonding.
12:15pm: first turkey in the oven!
12:24pm: second turkey in the oven!
3:06pm: Michelle’s parents arrive. Fun fact about the parents known as “JED” – they will arrive to any social event within 15 minutes of the agreed upon time; for example, if you ask them to arrive at 3pm, they will role down the driveway between 2:54 and 3:06pm.
4:06-5:32pm: the rest of the Finnsson (my mom’s family) arrive in an epic, three-car entourage involving four kids, one teenager, snacks, husbands, wives, aunts, uncles, special man friends, cousins, great cousins, one dog, and four amazing pumpkin pies. The worlds collide as my fiance’s parents meet my mom’s side of the family for the first time. Wine is poured, beers are opened and the conversations begin. As the families mingle in the living room, my dad and I simultaneously carve the two birds, dishes are whipped and mashed and heated, brussels are glazed, beets are de-skinned, and Uncle John stirs the gravy.
5:34-7:29pm: given that we have one prominent senior citizen in attendance (my Grandma, Betty), dinner, of course, starts well before 6pm. And away we go! About 24 of us (my littlest cousin, Nathan, might count for half-a-person) gather around an elongated table (two tables and an old door made into a table, actually) and proceed to indulge in perhaps the best meal that I’ve ever eaten. In fact, this theme – “the best meal I’ve ever eaten” – seems to resonate amongst the attendees of Thanksgiving 2009 for days to come. As I film a video, snap pictures and liberate cranberry sauce from the microwave, my sister assembles a heaping plate of culinary delight that takes me over an hour to devour. No worries, though, as I am surrounded by interesting, hilarious and thoughtful family members, who make the time fly by even if my mountain of mash potatoes (with home-canned green beens hiding underneath) doesn’t.
7:41-8:00pm: hilarious story. Guess who gets put in charge of the Supply Chain Management position between the pie-slicing station and the dinner table? My four year old cousin, Owen. As another cousin, Terri, and her Special Man Friend, Andrew, divide no fewer than 30 pieces of pie, Owen confidently picks them up and places them around the dinner table. Whenever anyone questions him he simply replies, “no, we need more; this one’s for my mom!”
8:10-9:17pm: a big theme of the entire weekend was helping. Everyone helped. And I mean everyone. My sister and future mom-in-law handle the dishes, Uncle John spearheads all clean-up duties that fell under the “other” category, Uncle Geoff (my dad, but all my cousins refer to him as such) herds the kids, and I do my part by eating all the pie that Owen distributed around the table. Within a matter of moments, there are no traces of a meal for 24 people or the things we used to make it.
9:43pm: everyone is gone and the key members of the culinary committee (mom, dad, sister, fiance, et moi) are chatting about the night’s frivolities in the living room.
9:57pm: I fall into a deep, deep sleep, burrowing into Michelle’s lap. The combination of turkey, chatter and about eight pieces of pie has taken its toll on my mind, body and soul in the best possible way.
9:57pm-9:01am: dreams include, but are not limited to, turkey, pie and a crazy, flying turkey pie.
Sunday, October 11, 2009 (Betty’s 85th Birthday)

Happy 85th Birthday, Betty!
9:08-10:45am: breakfast, coffee and reflections on the evening that passed. Did I really eat all that pie?! Yes, John. You did.
10:51am-12:02pm: Michelle and I embark on an emergency mission into town. Buns, juice, milk, and a saucy Argentine malbec (we chose Trapiche) make up our collection of supplies.
12:17-12:59pm: we arrive home to see my main man, Sid (my Grandma’s best friend and former cook-for-the-navy) overseeing all the helpers for a birthday lunch that makes the previous evening look like a quaint, romantic dinner for two. Sid has casseroles in the oven, fruit platters on the go and is brewing enough coffee for even more than the 40 senior citizens scheduled to arrive at one o’clock. Sid is a benevolent dictator who, somehow, makes me feel good while yelling at me because he felt I wasn’t whipping the cream the right way (“John, the beaters are turning the wrong way!”). But they only go one way, man…
1:00-2:10pm: on the dot, the seniors show up in droves (perhaps they took a bus). The family forms a reception line, and we greet all partygoers and show them to their seats. Promptly at 1:30 or so, Sid gives the order to begin eating and nobody fails to disappoint. The 40 or so guests dive into the plates of casserole, pickles, olives, salads, deviled eggs, and fruit leather (freshly made the day before by Papa Horn – it looks like barf, but tastes amazing).
2:15-3:00pm: my sister and I – in collaboration with the entire family – deliver one of our most epic family-event performances. Inspired by the great intellectual comedian, Demetri Martin, Betty: 85 Years of Data and Findings is quite the hit. I mean, if stripping down to a mumu in front of 40 seniors doesn’t get a laugh, what will. My mom also wrote a song, and it’s this performance, which includes the entire family and is complete with hilarious signs held up by ridiculously cute great grandchildren, that closes the show. After all, it wouldn’t be a family gathering if my mom didn’t write and perform a song or poem. At the end of the day, there’s a lot of love here for you, Betty.
3:30-6:59pm: so much relaxing. For a few hours, after everything is clean, my parents, sister, Michelle, my cousin Erik, and I chill out in the living room, reflecting on the day. My Uncle Gary walks his dog and then takes a nap in his truck and nobody asks why, because we love Gary.
7:00-9:52pm: the Canucks beat the Dallas Stars and this makes people happy. While this unlikely victory is taking place, Kim Horn and Michelle play their version of the game Guess Who? called “Profile Who?” And it goes like this: instead of asking question, each player gives a one sentence statement about their two characters and then the other player has to eliminate their options based on that sentence. For example, “okay, one of my guys is big and possibly eating the other guy; the big guy is pretty happy about it, but the other guy is really, really sad about being eaten.” Obviously we’re talking about Bill and Robert!
11:44pm: a day of entertaining, hosting and eating has made us all sleepy; this time, though, Michelle doesn’t have to carry me to bed.
11:55pm-10:03am: dreams include, but are not limited to, work (stupid cover letters!), wedding planning, and my friend Justin Rutka dancing with a giant turkey.
Monday, October 12, 2009
10:05am-1:07pm: finally, a bit of sleeping in! With coffee in hand and fresh-this-morning-eggs, the core-team of Thanksgiving and Betty’s Birthday eat breakfast and reflect on some of the highlights of the epic event. The deliciousness of the mostly local food (forget the 100 mile diet, most of the stuff came from 100 feet away in the Horn Family Garden) topped this list, with particular celebration being paid to the brussel sprouts, beets and melt-in-your-mouth turkey. How the whole household became a giant, gleeful, chatty, helpful, creative organism that seemed to move and organize and deliver ideas and information and food all on its own was another key highlight. Finally, we laugh at the hilariousness of how all the seniors left within eight minutes of the skit and song about Betty being over.
1:10-2:00pm: I spend some time walking the property and photographing what my dad calls “the epitomy of autumn.” My good friend, Theodora, once told me that I need to go to Merville every few months to find myself and re-charge my soul. She’s absolutely right, as this is the place where I am most centred and most understand the community that I want to help build elsewhere in the world. Obviously, it’s a community of family, food and hilarious senior citizens!
3-4:15pm: we stop in for a quick visit with Betty at the Seniors Palace of Fun and Adventure (clearly, there’s a little spin going on at this Old Folks Home!). She thanks us for the festivities and we thank her for, well, being her. Hugs are exchanged and I return the mumu, its purpose having been more than served.
4:17-5:22pm: Mom and dad drive us to the ferry. The ride – like the conversation – is simply delightful and we chat about how autumn in Eastern Canada is far superior to Fall on the West Coast. We then agree that the West Coast is superior in nearly every other way. Again, we reflect on how organic, delicious and community-oriented the weekend was. We also joke about how, to function properly, my Uncle John must have a task to accomplish during parties; any task.
5:30-7:29pm: we arrive at the Departure Bay terminal really, really early and meet about 200 people who missed the 5pm boat. While we wait, Michelle and I chat as well as send thank-you notes to everyone who made the weekend so darn great.
7:32-9:05pm: the ferry, again, is jammed. We carve out a space and read about education, epidemiology and relationship-building. We also cajole Michelle’s sister, Sarah, into picking us (and our heaping bags of squash, eggs, beets, carrots, leeks, potatoes, apples, and turkey sandwiches) up at Horseshoe Bay. All it costs us is a lude picture of her dog that she texts our way and some vegetables to be named later. Thanks for the memories, Sarah!
9:30-10:01pm: we get caught up on each others’ weekends and thank Sarah for the ride. We barter for passage by offering her a squash, two eggs, a carrot, a phallic beet, and two brussel sprouts.
10:06pm: happy and so, so relaxed, I push the key into the deadbolt of our apartment. It’s open. In fact, both locks aren’t locked at all. In disbelief, I inform Michelle of her Friday afternoon oversight and cautiously enter the apartment, all the while thinking of the thousands of photos saved on our computers. Of course, everything is just as we left it. And why wouldn’t it be? After all, it was just that kind of weekend…
So there it is. An epic journey catalogued with too many words. We shared a magical, community-centered weekend and, if you want to repeat some best practices in your life, here are some tips:
1. Plan ahead – whether it’s making a ferry or cooking for 40, this one is key.
2. Smile and relax – nothing – not busses nor overcooked food – is worth getting upset over.
3. Talk to people – it’s hard to build a community of friends, family and business partners if you say nothing; besides, seniors have amazing stories!
4. Local is better – it looks, feels and tastes better and is much, much healthier for our planet.
5. Help out – if you aren’t sure what to do to prepare, serve or clean-up, ask!
6. Don’t take yourself too seriously – listen to others’ ideas and directions, respect elders, laugh at yourself when you make a mistake, and, hey, don’t be afraid to put on a mumu for special occasions!
7. Commercial Drive is a safe place - man, at least this time the community (karma included) took care of us…
Thanks again to everyone who crossed our paths during our unraveling travels from Vancouver to Merville and back again. In your own special ways, you made it an unforgettable experience.
- JCH
Your Saturday Photo
While going to school I would often take a ferry ride over to the island. It was a tranquil experience and this photo seems to convey this. While BC Ferries tends to often get alot of people griping about everything from its fare hikes to its hilarious sponsorship on the bottom of the Canuck’s jumbotron (ok – maybe that’s just me, but if you have a monopoly on service, why do you need to spend thousands on advertising at Canucks games?), it’s also important to remember that they provide a critical service. More than anything else, everyday they connect the (often distinct) communities of Vancouver Islanders and Mainlanders. Good job BC Ferries. With this photo, I salute you.

Photo courtesy of Phil Skipper

